Influence of foreshore steepness on wave velocity and acceleration at the breakwater interface

In order to investigate which parameters, other than the parameters included in the wave energy density spectrum could play a role in the increase in damage for a steep foreshore, an experiment was conducted. In the wave flume of the Fluid Mechanics Laboratory an experimental test set up was constructed. The test setup consisted of a breakwater build on variable foreshore steepnesses (1:30, 1:15 and 1:8). Tests were conducted with regular waves, were the wavelength and the wave steepness at the toe of the breakwater were kept constant per individual test. These tests were conducted for the three different foreshore steepnesses. Wave runs were completed for different wave heights and wave steepnesses. Each experiment was repeated in order to increase the accuracy. At the breakwater the wave velocity and acceleration was measured with zero buoyant particles. The particles were monitored with a video camera.

为探究除波浪能密度谱（wave energy density spectrum）涵盖的参数外，尚有哪些参数可对陡峭前滨（foreshore）的破坏加剧产生影响，本研究开展了系列物理模型试验。在流体力学实验室（Fluid Mechanics Laboratory）的波浪水槽中搭建了试验装置，该装置包含一座建于可变坡度前滨（坡度分别为1:30、1:15与1:8）的防波堤（breakwater）。试验采用规则波开展，单次试验中，防波堤坡脚处的波长与波浪陡度保持恒定；针对上述三种不同前滨坡度，分别完成了多组不同波高与波浪陡度的试验工况。为提升试验精度，每组试验均重复多次。试验过程中采用零浮力颗粒测量防波堤处的波浪速度与加速度，并通过摄像机对颗粒运动进行监测。