Supplementary information files for "The Emperor’s old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature"

Supplementary files for article "The Emperor’s old clothes: a critical review of circular fashion in gray literature"A consensus across industry, academics, and policy-makers holds that a circular fashion system can reduce pollution and waste while producing continued economic growth. Gray literature, understood here as reports published outside of academic journals, has been foundational to describing and promoting circular economy and circular fashion. Yet, this literature is rarely subjected to critical scrutiny, allowing evidence, claims and methods to go unexamined. This review aims to understand how value and the market are conceptualized in a circular fashion system, and what are the implications of this. The study employs a problematizing review of 20 gray literature documents, including a key text of circular fashion: the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s 2017 report A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future. Textual analysis is used to identify assumptions, inferences and problem framings in the texts. These are evaluated against academic understandings, demonstrating that core concepts of the circular fashion proposal are poorly defined and unconnected to existing theory and knowledge. Existing retail practices and consumer marketing messages are central to circular fashion, while the role of the market in setting prices is ignored. A $460 billion error is revealed, refuting the claim that a circular fashion system provides an opportunity for growth. We offer a critical perspective on the role of gray literature and gray publishers in shaping policy-making and, subsequently, academic research programs. We argue that new proposals for sustainable fashion are needed, based on established knowledge and validated models.<br><br>© 2025 Hussain, Kuzmina and Koria, CC BY 4.0

论文《皇帝的新衣：灰色文献（gray literature）中循环时尚的批判性评述》补充材料。产业界、学术界与政策制定者已达成共识：循环时尚体系可在减少污染与废弃物的同时实现持续的经济增长。本文所指的灰色文献，即未在学术期刊发表的研究报告，是描述与推广循环经济及循环时尚的核心基础。然而，这类文献极少受到批判性审视，致使其中的证据、主张与研究方法均未得到充分检视。本评述旨在探究循环时尚体系中价值与市场的概念化路径，及其背后蕴含的潜在影响。本研究通过对20篇灰色文献进行问题化评述展开分析，其中涵盖循环时尚领域的核心文本——艾伦·麦克阿瑟基金会（Ellen MacArthur Foundation）2017年发布的报告《新纺织经济：重塑时尚的未来》。研究采用文本分析法，识别文献中的预设前提、推理逻辑与问题框架。结合学术共识对上述内容进行评估后可见，循环时尚倡议的核心概念界定模糊，且与现有理论及学术认知脱节。循环时尚的核心框架围绕现有零售实践与消费者营销信息展开，却完全忽视了市场在定价中的关键作用。研究揭示了一项价值4600亿美元的认知谬误，驳斥了"循环时尚体系可带来增长机遇"的主张。本研究针对灰色文献及灰色文献出版商在政策制定乃至后续学术研究规划中所扮演的角色，提出了批判性视角。研究主张，需基于成熟学术知识与经过验证的模型，提出可持续时尚领域的全新倡议。

© 2025 Hussain、Kuzmina与Koria，CC BY 4.0许可协议