Climatological Wave Height, Wave Period and Wave Power along Coastal Areas of the East Coast of the United States and Gulf of Mexico

This U.S. Geological Survey data release provides data on spatial variations in climatological wave parameters (significant wave height, peak wave period, and wave power) for coastal areas along the United States East Coast and Gulf of Mexico. Significant wave height is the average wave height, from crest to trough, of the highest one-third of the waves in a specific time period. Peak wave period is the wave period associated with the most energetic waves in the wave spectrum in a specific time period. Wave power is the energy per unit length generated by the movement of ocean waves. Climatological wave conditions provide the average forcing that can lead to changes in the coastal environment. For the generation of this dataset, we use model simulations. Waves under different climatological wind forcing conditions averaged from the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMWF) Re-Analysis (ERA-5) were simulated using the coupled ADCIRC/SWAN model system. Coastal areas are resolved with horizontal resolutions on the order of hundreds of meters. The ADCIRC/SWAN simulations provide steady-state wave conditions under constant wind at each computational point of an unstructured grid that covers the entire area of interest-from the open ocean to overland areas up to approximately 15 meters above the North American Vertical Datum of 1988. The simulations provide wave height and period and are also used to calculate wave power. We consider the frequency of occurrence of each wind magnitude and direction bin for each location to reconstruct weighted-average wave conditions. The resulting wave parameters are provided at all points of the computational grid less than 10 meter elevation and shallower than -30 meter bottom depth (North American Vertical Datum of 1988). Grid points above 10 meters and deeper than 30 meters are given a fill value.

本美国地质调查局（U.S. Geological Survey）发布的数据集，提供了美国东海岸与墨西哥湾沿岸区域的气候学波浪参数空间变化数据，所涉参数包括有效波高、峰值波周期与波浪功率。其中，有效波高指特定时段内，海浪中占比最高的三分之一波高（从波峰至波谷）的平均值；峰值波周期指特定时段内，海浪谱中能量最高的波浪所对应的波周期；波浪功率指海洋波浪运动所产生的单位长度能量。气候学波浪条件代表了可引发海岸环境变化的平均强迫力。本数据集的生成采用模型模拟方法：研究借助耦合ADCIRC/SWAN模型系统，对取自欧洲中期天气预报中心（European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast, ECMWF）再分析数据集（ERA-5）的不同气候学风强迫条件下的海浪进行了模拟，沿岸区域的水平分辨率可达百米量级。ADCIRC/SWAN模拟在覆盖整个研究区域（从开阔洋面至海拔约15米以上的陆地区域，以1988年北美垂直基准面为基准）的非结构化网格的每个计算点上，提供了恒定风场下的稳态波浪条件。该模拟可输出波高与波周期数据，并用于计算波浪功率。针对每个位置，我们统计各风速与风向区间的出现频率，以重构加权平均后的波浪条件。最终生成的波浪参数将提供给所有满足以下条件的计算网格点：海拔低于10米（以1988年北美垂直基准面为基准）且海底深度浅于-30米（以1988年北美垂直基准面为基准）。海拔高于10米且海底深度深于30米的网格点将被赋予填充值。