Innovative Plant-Based Mordants and Colorants for Application on Cotton Fabric

Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) promote the utilization of renewable materials and processing methodologies for achieving circularity in the fashion industry production. Hence, the research was initiated to investigate the innovative and renewable plant-based sources of mordants and colorants for textiles that benefit the environment and human health alike. The research examinations established mugwort herb, rue herb, black cherry stems, and hops flower as a sustainable and innovative source of mordants and colorants on cotton fabrics. The Atomic Absorption Spectrometry (AAS) analysis of 6% stock herbal infusions identified the highest levels of copper and ferrous content in hops flower, and black cherry stems of 6.5 mg/l and 11 mg/l respectively as a prospective renewable and innovative source of mordants and colorants. Their applications on textiles would prevent the fatal mining and depletion of mineral ores of copper and ferrous elements, and metal toxicity to the ecosystem would be combated. Very good rub fastness and wash fastness to color staining, on the other hand, fair lightfastness ratings were gained. The cotton fabrics pre-treated with black cherry stems and colored with hops flowers exhibited the minimum transmittance percentage in the UVB region at 12.98% therefore practically appropriate for summer wear. Evaluation of ecological parameters, ATR-FTIR study of herbs and their treated fabrics, and Life Cycle Analysis is recommended for future work.

可持续发展目标（Sustainable Development Goals, SDGs）旨在推广可再生材料与加工方法的应用，以实现时尚产业生产的循环化。为此，本研究启动相关探索，旨在发掘兼具环境效益与人类健康益处的创新型可再生植物基纺织品媒染剂与着色剂来源。经实验验证，艾蒿、芸香、黑樱桃茎与啤酒花可作为可持续且创新的棉用媒染剂与着色剂来源。对6%储备型草本浸提液开展的原子吸收光谱法（Atomic Absorption Spectrometry, AAS）分析显示，啤酒花与黑樱桃茎中的铜与亚铁含量最高，分别为6.5 mg/l与11 mg/l，是极具应用前景的可再生创新型媒染剂与着色剂来源。将其应用于纺织品生产，可避免铜、亚铁元素矿物矿石的破坏性开采与枯竭，并能缓解金属元素对生态系统的毒性。所得染色织物在色渍方面表现出优异的摩擦色牢度与耐洗色牢度，但耐光色牢度评级仅为中等。经黑樱桃茎预处理、啤酒花染色的棉织物在紫外线B（UVB）波段的透光率最低，仅为12.98%，因此非常适合用于夏季服饰制作。后续研究建议开展生态参数评估、草药及处理后织物的衰减全反射傅里叶变换红外光谱（ATR-FTIR）分析，以及生命周期分析（Life Cycle Analysis）。