Factors Influencing Equilibrium Of A Model Sand Beach

Characteristics of a two-dimensional model beach subjected to wave action and with initial slope 1:60 were investigated. The hypothesis that the beach profile reaches a repeatable equilibrium form was tested. It was found that the entire profile did not have a repeatable equilibrium shape, possibly due to minor uncontrollable water level variations. Certain features of the profile were found to exhibit better qualities than others. The maximum height of the beach crest above stillwater was determined to have a repeatable and stable shape. For other test data with initial slopes 1 :20 and 1 :30, the maximum height of the beach crest was found to correlate well with the deepwater wavelength. The initial slope was determined to have a significant effect on the determined relations. Funding: NOAA Office of Sea Grants; grant number: 04-6-158-44012;

本研究针对受波浪作用、初始坡度为1:60的二维模型海滩开展了特性分析，并对"海滩剖面可达到可重复平衡形态"这一假设进行了验证。研究发现，完整海滩剖面并未呈现可重复的平衡形态，该现象可能源于难以控制的微小水位波动。剖面的部分特征相较于其余特征表现出更优异的特性。经测定，海滩脊线超出静水面的最大高度具备可重复且稳定的形态。针对初始坡度为1:20与1:30的其余试验数据，海滩脊线最大高度与深水波长呈现出良好的相关性。初始坡度对所得到的相关关系具有显著影响。资助方：美国国家海洋和大气管理局（National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration，NOAA）海赠款办公室；项目编号：04-6-158-44012；