COFFEE TERRITORIALIZATION IN CAPARAÓ CAPIXABA

Abstract Brazil has several regions shaped by the insertion of the coffee economy, an arrangement that highlights the coffee production chain as a structuring element of the territory. This article aims to characterize the territorialization of the coffee production chain in the Caparaó Capixaba region. The qualitative, exploratory, descriptive, and ethnographic research is divided into three stages: bibliographic, fieldwork and interviews. The field research lasted from November 2020 to January 2021. The interviews, conducted online, occurred between September and November 2021. The respondents were 15 coffee producers in the municipalities of Iúna and Irupi, in Caparaó Capixaba, Brazil. Consequently, the formation of Caparaó territoriality from the region's historic coffee culture is evident. Thus, the study increases the understanding of the production, consumption, and commercialization of the region's coffee. Some essential factors considered are the appropriation of space by producers, resignification of practices and territory through work, reinforcement of local identity, formation of the coffee landscape and subsequent productive differentiation through the focus on specialty coffees. Finally, visibility is given to coffee growers' protagonism in a region neglected in recent decades due to low quantitative productivity but which boasts expressive results in agroecological, family and specialty coffee production.

摘要 巴西存在多个因咖啡经济嵌入而形成的区域，此类区域将咖啡产业链作为国土空间构建的核心要素予以凸显。本文旨在刻画卡帕拉奥卡皮沙巴（Caparaó Capixaba）地区咖啡产业链的空间化进程。本研究采用质性、探索性、描述性及民族志（ethnographic）研究方法，分为三个阶段：文献调研、实地调研与访谈环节。实地调研周期为2020年11月至2021年1月；线上访谈则于2021年9月至11月间开展。受访对象为巴西卡帕拉奥卡皮沙巴地区伊乌纳（Iúna）与伊鲁皮（Irupi）两市的15名咖啡种植户。研究证实，该地区的国土空间塑造与本土悠久的咖啡文化密不可分。本研究有助于深化对该地区咖啡生产、消费与商业化环节的认知。研究重点关注的核心要素包括：种植户对空间的占用、通过劳动实现实践与空间的意义重构、地方身份认同的强化、咖啡景观的塑造，以及通过聚焦精品咖啡（specialty coffees）实现后续的生产分化。最后，本研究彰显了近几十年来因量化产能偏低而被忽视的该地区咖啡种植户的主体作用：该区域虽整体产量表现平平，但在生态农业型、家庭式及精品咖啡生产领域成果斐然。