Assessment of an anti-ageing structured cosmetic formulation containing goji berry

Based on previous studies, it has been found that goji berry (GB), popularly known as a ‘miracle fruit’, has excellent antioxidant potential and can be used in the treatment of skin disorders associated with ageing. This study aimed to incorporate GB into a structured cosmetic in order to optimise its penetration. Stability studies of the formulation, determination of the antioxidant activity of the extract and of the formulation, rheological measurements, SAXS, polarised light microscopy and bioadhesion analyses were performed. The results indicated the antioxidant activity of the extract, which can be incorporated into an emulsified cosmetic formulation. The emulsified formulation containing the extract remained stable, even after being submitted to thermal and luminous stresses for 30 days. In addition, rheological tests revealed that the addition of the GB soft extract reduced the viscosity of the formulation, increasing thixotropy and deformation. These systems were characterised by SAXS as a lamellar phase, which was confirmed by polarised light microscopy. These highly organised structures indicate their excellent stability. In vitro bioadhesion experiments revealed that these formulations exhibited skin adhesion strength statistically similar to commercial anti-ageing formulation. These results suggest that this formulation has excellent potential to be used as a topical treatment for ageing.

过往研究表明，枸杞（Goji Berry，GB）俗称“神奇果”，具备优异的抗氧化活性，可用于治疗与衰老相关的皮肤病症。本研究旨在将枸杞提取物引入结构化化妆品配方，以优化其皮肤渗透效率。本研究对该配方开展了稳定性考察，同时测定了提取物与配方的抗氧化活性，还进行了流变学测试、小角X射线散射（Small Angle X-ray Scattering，SAXS）、偏光显微镜观测以及生物黏附性分析。实验结果证实，该提取物具备抗氧化活性，可成功引入乳化型化妆品配方中。含该提取物的乳化配方即便经历30天的热应力与光辐照胁迫后，仍保持良好稳定性。此外，流变学测试结果显示，添加枸杞软提取物可降低配方的黏度，同时提升其触变性与形变能力。经小角X射线散射（SAXS）表征，该体系呈现层状相结构，这一结果通过偏光显微镜观测得到验证。这类高度有序的结构进一步印证了该配方的优异稳定性。体外生物黏附实验结果表明，该配方的皮肤黏附强度与市售抗衰化妆品在统计学上无显著差异。综上，本研究开发的配方具备作为衰老相关皮肤问题局部治疗制剂的巨大应用潜力。