The threads and traces of fashion: commerce and sociability in São Paulo at the beginning of the 20 th century

ABSTRACT The turn of the 20th century witnessed profound transformations in the city of São Paulo and new forms of its inhabitants will be related to urban space. The waves of immigrants who disembarked there, the installation of an urban infrastructure, a rationalization of the municipal bureaucracy, the introduction of new tastes and habits of consumption, the construction of innumerable factories, and a host of other factors culminated in the material production of a city expanding from its original core, known as the Triângulo or Historic Hill. The middle classes took part in this series of transformations, most notably through their involvement in the construction of residential buildings, taking advantage of the opportunities afforded by the rentier financial market. Many of these buildings would eventually be remodeled to combine residential and business functions - a process typical in the eastern part of the city, especially in the neighborhood of Brás. The neighborhood, known for its industrial park, was home to a number of commercial establishments dedicated to clothing and personal care, including stores, tailors, and professionals associated with the jewelry business. This article examines the role of the proprietors these spaces in the material configuration of Brás and nearby neighborhoods through the use of Geographic Information System (GIS), utilizing a variety of documentary sources to spatialize them.

摘要
19世纪末20世纪初，圣保罗市经历了深刻的社会变革，其居民与城市空间的互动关系也呈现出新的形态。在此登陆的移民浪潮、城市基础设施的兴建、市政官僚体系的合理化改革、新型消费品味与习惯的传入、大量工厂的兴建，以及诸多其他因素，最终促成这座城市从以"三角区"（Triângulo）或"历史山丘"（Historic Hill）为核心的原城区向外扩张的物质空间格局。

中产阶级深度参与了这一系列变革，其中最为突出的是他们借助食利金融市场提供的机遇，投身于住宅楼宇的建造。此类楼宇中许多最终被改造为兼具居住与商业功能的复合建筑——这种改造模式在圣保罗东区尤为普遍，尤以布拉兹（Brás）街区为甚。该街区以其工业园区闻名，区内聚集了大量主营服装与个人护理用品的商业机构，包括门店、裁缝铺以及与珠宝行业相关的从业者。

本文借助地理信息系统（Geographic Information System，GIS），结合各类文献资料实现空间可视化，探讨了这些空间的所有者在布拉兹及周边街区的物质空间塑造中所发挥的作用。