Data for: Spectral refraction modeling of waves around the steep reef at Palau

Western Pacific islands, such as Palau, are vulnerable to wave-driven inundation due to low land elevations and limited space for coastal retreat.  Assessing the impacts of extreme wave events on these low-lying islands requires regional numerical models that account for remotely generated waves from all directions and that resolve the complex bathymetry surrounding the islands.  Such models often are computationally expensive and impractical for operational forecasts. In this study, eight years of wave observations from 10 sites around the island chain of Palau, at depths ranging from 9.4 m to 17.6 m, are used to characterize the spatial variability of the island group's wave climate and to test the ability of a spectral refraction model to downscale regional wave hindcasts and reproduce the observed incident conditions.  The spectral refraction model demonstrates significant skill predicting reef edge significant wave heights (mean r2 = 0.77, mean RMSE = 0.21 m) at the ..., Wave observations were measured from RBR Wave Gauges.  Model output is from spectral refraction model., , # Data for: Spectral refraction modeling of waves around the steep reef at Palau

[https://doi.org/10.5061/dryad.cvdncjtdt](https://doi.org/10.5061/dryad.cvdncjtdt)

## Description of the data and file structure

Observations: Wave gauge observations were made using RBR Pressure Sensors. 

SRM>Buoy: The spectral refraction model prediction at P10 using the directional wave buoy as the offshore wave spectra.

SRM>CAWCR>wavegauge_sites: The spectral refraction model prediction at wave gauge sites using the CAWCR hindcast output.

SRM>CAWCR>Babeldaob_Lan: The spectral refraction model prediction at sites around Babeldaob during Typhoon Lan using the CAWCR hindcast output as directional wave spectra.
### Files and variables

#### File: Data\_for\_\_Spectral\_Refraction\_Modeling\_of\_Waves\_around\_the\_Steep\_Reef\_at\_Palau-20250205T224351Z-001.zip

**Description:** Observations of significant wave height, peak period, mean period, and spectral bandwidth from the 10 wave gauge sites can b...,