Energy transfers and reflexion of infragravity waves at a dissipative beach under storm waves.

%%% Author: Xavier Bertin ([e-mail]) %%%<br> %%% Date: 15/04/2020 %%% <br> %%% Purpose: This repository provides the field observations and XBeach model input %%%<br> %%% required to reproduce the results presented in paper referred below. %%%<br> %%% Reference: Bertin, X., Martins, K., de Bakker, A., Guérin, T., Chataigner, T., %%%<br> %%% Coulombier, T. et de Viron, O., 2020. Energy transfers and reflexion of %%%<br> %%% infragravity waves at a dissipative beach under storm waves. In press %%%<br> %%% to Journal of Geophysical Research-Ocean. %%%<br> %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% *The directory Obs includes:<br> -The wave bulk parameters computed as explained in the paper for the 10 sensores used in this<br> study: the offshore ADCP1, the intertidal PT1, PT2, ADCP2/PT3, PT4, PT5, ADV/PT6, PT7/Altus, PT8<br> and PT9. Each file has the same format and includes: the date (YYYY MM DD), the time (HH MM SS), <br> the mean water depth, the spectral significant wave height Hm0, mean wave periods Tm01 and Tm02, <br> the discrete and continuous peak periods, the energetic wave period Tm0,-2 and the spectral<br> significant height of IG waves Hm0,IG. <br> -The spectral significant height Hm0,IG+ and mean wave period Tm02,IG+ of incoming IG waves<br> separated at the ADCP2 and ADV using the method of Guza et al. (1984). The two files have the same <br> format and includes the date (YYYY MM DD), the time (HH MM SS), Hm0,IG+ and Tm02,IG+.<br> -The position of each sensore measured with a geodetic GNSS and provided in the same datum as the <br> bathymetry used in the model (Lambert93 and mean sea level). *The directory XBeach includes all the necessary files required to reproduce the simulations presented <br> in this study<br> -The bathymetry interpolated over a rectilinear grid, with X and Y given in Lambert93 coordinates (files<br> X_L93.grd and Y_L93.grd) and Z referred with respect to mean sea level (Z_L93.grd).<br> -The water level fluctuations measured at ADCP1 (WLevel_ADCP_201702.dat).<br> -The XBeach input file (params.txt) and a file providing the list of directional wave spectra<br> provided in the directory "Spectra_WWIII". These spectra were computed from a regional application of <br> WaveWatchIII over the North Atlantic Ocean and forced with CFSR wind fields but they were converted<br> in the format of SWAN, readable by XBeach.