Application of a spectrum analyzer in forecasting ocean swell in southern California coastal waters
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The definitions and concepts of spectral ocean wave forecasting methods are reviewed and applied to the interpretation of trace records of the Snodgrass Spectrum Analyzer. Proper interpretation of the trace enables the prediction of arrival time and size of heaviest surf. Tables derived from the Neumann Spectrum are fitted to the eight frequency channels of the analyzer and used to construct a hypothetical whole spectrum from a partially arrived swell spectrum. Case studies of a North Pacific winter storm, an Eastern Pacific Hurricane, and a Southern Hemisphere storm are made. Lawrence P. Kierulff. Includes bibliographical references (page 10). 1979 NWS (National Weather Service) WR (Western Region) Library Public Domain 1931
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2021-10-05
