Geographical Indication Re-signifying Artisanal Production of Curd Cheese in Northeastern Brazil

Abstract Fierce market competition and growing consumer demand for quality have spurred organizations to seek certification as a way of differentiating their products and services from those of competitors. Geographical Indication (GI) is a type of certification that has received attention from agribusiness. The significance as a cultural artifact (e.g., locally-produced curd cheese) does not lie in the product itself, but in the relationships that are established between those who produce it and those who consume it, thereby highlighting the interrelationships of these symbolic production practices. This study seeks to understand how the process of GI certification has conferred new meaning on (re-signified) artisanal production of curd cheese in rural parts of the Brazilian state of Pernambuco. GI adds value to the product, making it competitive. Discourse analysis enabled comparison of the cheese's original cultural meanings with those outlined by Curd Cheese Certification Association (CCCA) member-producers. Certification-driven innovations have helped CCCA member-producers to re-signify their artisanal production, while providing a clear understanding of both the material and symbolic dimensions of improvements perceived to have occurred in the production process.摘要 激烈的市场竞争与消费者对品质日益增长的需求，促使各类组织通过申请认证，实现自身产品与服务与竞争对手的差异化。地理标志（Geographical Indication, GI）是一类受到农业综合企业关注的认证类型。作为文化载体的地理标志产品（例如本地生产的凝乳奶酪），其价值并非体现于产品本身，而是蕴含于生产者与消费者之间构建的联结之中，由此凸显出这类符号化生产实践的内在关联。本研究旨在探究地理标志认证流程如何为巴西伯南布哥州农村地区的凝乳奶酪手工生产赋予全新内涵（即意义重构）。地理标志可为产品赋能增值，提升其市场竞争力。本研究借助话语分析方法，将凝乳奶酪的原生文化内涵与凝乳奶酪认证协会（Curd Cheese Certification Association, CCCA）成员生产者所阐释的内涵进行对比。由认证驱动的创新不仅助力CCCA成员生产者完成手工生产的意义重构，还使研究者得以清晰认知生产过程中所感知到的改进在物质与符号两个维度上的具体表现。