Influence of foreshore steepness on wave velocity and acceleration at the breakwater interface

In order to investigate which parameters, other than the parameters included in the wave energy density spectrum could play a role in the increase in damage for a steep foreshore, an experiment was conducted. In the wave flume of the Fluid Mechanics Laboratory an experimental test set up was constructed. The test setup consisted of a breakwater build on variable foreshore steepnesses (1:30, 1:15 and 1:8). Tests were conducted with regular waves, were the wavelength and the wave steepness at the toe of the breakwater were kept constant per individual test. These tests were conducted for the three different foreshore steepnesses. Wave runs were completed for different wave heights and wave steepnesses. Each experiment was repeated in order to increase the accuracy. At the breakwater the wave velocity and acceleration was measured with zero buoyant particles. The particles were monitored with a video camera.