IDENTITY SEMIOSIS: PORTRAITS OF FASHION IN SCHOOL SPACE

ABSTRACT: Clothing, accessories and behavior are part of the fashion universe and are manifested as a significant aspect of the language of personal communication, reflecting in the social-historical path of each subject. Present in all spaces, fashion is characterized as an inseparable element of the school space, an environment composed of subjects who are building their identity(s). In view of this, the present research had as a general objective to understand how fashion contributes to the construction of identities in the school space. To achieve the proposed objective, a qualitative, descriptive and documentary research was carried out. In the data collection, six photographs of students in school spaces were selected, in which the fashion signs present in these records were analyzed, based on Semiotics by Charles Sanders Peirce. From the results, it was noticed that, most of the students, spontaneously become uniformed, through the use of t-shirts, jeans, leggings, sweatshirt and sneakers. An individualization was also noticeable through the washing of jeans, accessories and prints. In addition, it was understood that groups are formed through the signs they carry, and that these can expose the subject's tastes. That is, fashion presents itself as fundamental for these phenomena to occur and be presented to other individuals. These phenomena, evidenced through the desire for imitation and differentiation, or through relationships of status and power. It is concluded that it is through the display of clothes and accessories carried that young people expose their identity(s), tastes and ideas.摘要：服饰、配饰与行为同属时尚范畴，作为个人表达话语的关键维度得以彰显，映射着每一位主体的社会历史轨迹。时尚渗透于所有空间场景之中，而校园空间正是其不可或缺的组成部分——这一场域由诸多正在塑造自身身份认同的个体所构成。有鉴于此，本研究的总体目标在于探究时尚如何助力校园空间中的身份建构。 为达成既定研究目标，本研究采用质性描述与文献研究方法开展。在数据采集环节，研究人员遴选了6张校园场景中学生的照片，并基于查尔斯·桑德斯·皮尔斯（Charles Sanders Peirce）的符号学理论，对这些影像中蕴含的时尚符号展开分析。 研究结果显示，绝大多数学生会通过穿着T恤、牛仔裤、紧身裤、运动衫与运动鞋，自发形成着装统一的状态；同时，通过牛仔裤的水洗处理、配饰搭配与印花设计，个体也能展现出独特的个性化特征。此外，研究还发现，群体可依托其所携带的符号得以形成，而这些符号亦可传递主体的审美偏好。换言之，时尚是上述现象得以产生并向他人展现的核心基础。这类现象体现为对模仿与差异化的追求，或是通过地位与权力关系得以呈现。 最终研究结论表明，青少年正是通过展示自身身着的服饰与配饰，来彰显其身份认同、审美偏好与思想观念。