(Re)production and The Loss of Culture and Tradition- A Case Study of the Gendered Tradition of Phulkari

The research objective of the paper is to study the impact of changing trends and practices on Punjab’s cultural heritage product - Phulkari; To remark the loss of culture in the form of sentiments or emotions associated with the embroidering community and their product named Phulkari; To gauge the efficacy of the GI Tag given to the product in safeguarding the traditional practice and the interests of the women - community (stakeholders) that partakes in it. The objective of the study was realized by collecting data from traders/sellers and craftswomen/artisans using semi-structured questionnaires and key informant interviews. qualitative data of this study has been analyzed using NVivo 15 (a qualitative data analysis software). Its features such as automated coding, automated sentiment analysis, and word frequency analysis as part of the thematic analysis process has been extensively utilized. The analysis of responses of the select stakeholders using NVivo has been presented under two heads: in the first part, thematic analysis of the responses has been done whereas in the second part, the sentiments of the stakeholders with respect to Phulkari has been analyzed, collated and (re)produced. The thematic analysis of responses comprised of following themes: Phulkari work in contemporary times, existing designs and patterns, reasons for buying phulkari, process of acquisition, loss of culture and tradition in the event of commercialization, GI Tagging and its relevance. Extensive use of word cloud and tree map has been done to depict the themes pictorially. The terms such as "demand," "people," "customers," "embroidery," "phulkari," and "works" are predominant. This indicates that the responses from shopkeepers are primarily focused on the commercialization of the product. Artisans' perceptions encompass a broader range of lexical items. This suggests an emphasis on the transformation of intergenerational cultural practices, highlighting comparisons with traditional Phulkari practices. The artisans' responses address themes such as purpose, patterns, designs, methodologies, and the values associated with their products, as well as how this craft has become a source of empowerment for them. The interconnections between various words. Prominent terms such as "Work," "Phulkari," and "Now," along with their connections, align seamlessly with the auto-coded themes and subthemes mentioned above. This demonstrates the interlinkages amongst all terms and each theme.The sentiment analysis of the stakeholders using autocoding in NVivo reveals a mixed sentiment comprising of neutral, positive and negative emotions. The responses of the stakeholders have been categorised into the nature of sentiments. The analysis of data also reveals the demonstrable ineffectiveness of GI tagging in securing prosperity of artisans and significant erosion of its cultural significance.

本论文的研究目标为探究变迁趋势与实践对旁遮普文化遗产产物——旁遮利卡里（Phulkari）的影响；旨在以与刺绣社群及其产物旁遮利卡里相关的情感与情绪为载体，揭示文化流失现象；并评估为该产物授予地理标志（Geographical Indication，GI）标签在保护传统实践以及参与其中的女性社群（利益相关者）权益方面的有效性。本研究通过半结构化问卷与关键知情人访谈，从贸易商/卖家与手工艺女性/匠人群体中收集数据。本研究的定性数据采用定性数据分析软件NVivo 15进行分析，其自带的自动编码、自动情感分析以及词频分析等主题分析工具均得到了广泛应用。采用NVivo对选定利益相关者的反馈进行分析后，结果分为两部分呈现：第一部分为反馈的主题分析，第二部分则对利益相关者关于旁遮利卡里的情感进行分析、整理与（再）呈现。反馈的主题分析涵盖以下主题：当代语境下的旁遮利卡里刺绣、现存设计与图案、旁遮利卡里的购买动因、获取途径、商业化进程中的文化与传统流失、地理标志标签及其意义。本研究还大量使用词云与树状图对主题进行可视化呈现。诸如“需求”“民众”“客户”“刺绣”“旁遮利卡里”与“作品”等术语占据主导地位，这表明店主的反馈主要聚焦于该产品的商业化运作。手工艺人的感知则涵盖了更广泛的词汇范畴，这意味着其关注点在于代际文化实践的变迁，并凸显了与传统旁遮利卡里实践的对比。手工艺人的反馈涉及目的、图案、设计、工艺方法以及其作品所承载的价值，同时也提及该手工艺如何成为她们赋能的来源。各类词汇之间存在内在关联，诸如“作品”“旁遮利卡里”与“如今”等核心术语及其关联关系，与前文提及的自动编码主题及子主题高度契合，这印证了所有术语与各主题之间的内在联系。通过NVivo自动编码开展的利益相关者情感分析结果显示，其情感呈现混合状态，涵盖中性、积极与消极情绪。利益相关者的反馈被按照情感性质进行分类。数据分析同时揭示，地理标志标签在保障手工艺人经济福祉方面效果甚微，且其文化意义已遭到显著侵蚀。