Geometry and grain-size sorting of ripples on low-energy sandy beaches: field observations and model predications

Ripple height, length and sediment composition were measured in the nearshore of several low-energy beaches with concurrent measurements of incident waves. The distribution of sediment sizes over individual ripples was investigated, and the performance of several models of ripple geometry prediction was tested both spatially and temporally.

针对多个低能海滩的近岸区域，开展了水下沙纹（ripple）高度、长度与沉积物组成的测量，并同步开展了入射波浪的观测。本研究调查了单个水下沙纹表面的沉积物粒径分布特征，并分别从空间与时间维度，对多款沙纹几何形态预测模型的性能进行了测试验证。