ANALYSIS OF THE EFUsmanova Feruzakhon Bakhadirzhanovna FECT OF MACHINE NEEDLES ON KNITTED FABRICS DURING THE SEWING PROCESS OF BLENDED KNITWEAR

Blended knitted fabrics are characterized by high elasticity and significant deformation properties, and during the sewing process, machine needles have a considerable impact on the fabric structure. Incorrect needle selection or improper sewing parameters may lead to fiber breakage, loop structure damage, reduced seam quality, and the formation of surface defects. Therefore, the scientific study of needle–fabric interaction is highly relevant. In this study, different types of needles (ball point, universal, and stretch) used in sewing blended knitted fabrics were experimentally analyzed. The effects of needle diameter, tip shape, and sewing speed on fabric structure and seam quality were evaluated. Microscopic observations were conducted to determine the level of fiber damage, and quality indicators were compared using statistical analysis. The results showed that ball point needles pass between the loops of knitted fabrics, causing minimal fiber damage and improving seam quality. In contrast, sharp-pointed universal needles tend to cut fibers, increasing the number of defects. It was also found that increasing the needle diameter intensifies fabric deformation. When optimal sewing parameters are selected, defects can be reduced by 20–30%. Thus, proper selection of needle type and technological parameters in sewing blended knitted fabrics is a key factor in improving product quality. Scientifically justified needle selection helps preserve fabric structure, ensure seam strength, and enhance production efficiency混纺针织物（blended knitted fabrics）具有高弹性与显著变形特性，而在缝纫过程中，缝纫机机针（machine needles）对织物结构具有显著影响。机针选型不当或缝纫参数设置不合理，均可能引发纤维断裂、线圈结构受损、缝迹质量（seam quality）下降以及表面瑕疵（surface defects）产生等问题。因此，开展针-织物相互作用（needle–fabric interaction）的科学研究具有重要现实意义。本研究针对缝纫混纺针织物所使用的三类不同机针——圆头机针（ball point needles）、通用机针（universal needles）与弹力机针（stretch needles），开展了实验分析，评估了机针直径、针尖形状及缝纫速度对织物结构与缝迹质量的影响。通过显微观测（microscopic observations）确定纤维损伤程度，并采用统计分析（statistical analysis）方法对比各项质量指标。研究结果表明，圆头机针可从针织物线圈间隙中穿过，对纤维造成的损伤极小，且能提升缝迹质量；与之相对，尖头通用机针易切断纤维，导致瑕疵数量增加。同时研究发现，增大机针直径会加剧织物变形，当选用最优缝纫参数时，可将瑕疵数量降低20%~30%。综上，在混纺针织物的缝纫工序中，合理选型机针与工艺参数是提升产品质量的关键因素，科学合理的机针选型有助于维持织物结构完整性、保障缝迹强度并提高生产效率。