Den androgyne figur som ikon

Lifestyle magazines do not just communicate consumer-oriented fashion and lifestyle in the fashion editorial. On the contrary, it often functions as a tool for the magazine to orchestrate its cultural identity and this way it can be perceived as the magazine’s work of art. As an autonomous work of art it involves the reader by a vast use of iconic references, which draws on a comprehensive variety of historical, literary, cultural as well as artistic icons, symbols and representations. These are staged delicately, ironically, sexualized and aesthetically and they function as a visual appetizer as well as a challenge of decoding for the reader. This article argues that the use of iconic representations mirrors the reader and his intellectual competence and this argument is based on an analysis of fashion photographs taken from a fashion editorial from the Danish lifestyle magazine for men, Euroman.

在时尚编辑板块中，生活方式杂志的功能绝非仅止步于传播以消费者为导向的时尚与生活潮流。恰恰相反，其常作为杂志构建自身文化身份的载体，进而被视作杂志的艺术创作作品。作为一件独立的艺术作品，它通过大量运用标志性意象（iconic references）来调动读者的参与感——这些意象取材于包罗万象的历史、文学、文化与艺术领域的各类标志性元素、符号及视觉表征。这些意象被以精致细腻、反讽戏谑、性感化且富有美学质感的方式编排呈现，既充当了视觉开胃素材，也为读者带来了解码解读的挑战。本文提出，标志性视觉表现的运用实则映射了读者及其知识素养水平，该论断基于对丹麦男性生活方式杂志《Euroman》的时尚编辑板块中所收录的时尚摄影作品的分析。