Development of sunscreen products containing passion fruit seed extract

Abstract Application of sunscreen is the most established method of protecting skin from premature aging and photoaging. In this study, the passion fruit seed extract, enriched with biologically beneficial phenolics, was formulated into sun-protective makeup product. The UVB protection of concealer mousse was found have twofold higher sun protection factor (SPF) than the liquid foundation (15.48 ± 1.60 and 5.88 ± 0.30, respectively). The SPF of concealer mousse as well as the liquid foundation containing 0.1% and 0.3% of the passion fruit seed extract were 18.75 ± 0.28, 18.99 ± 0.71 and 9.32 ± 0.88, 9.77 ± 1.37, respectively. Therefore, the concealers with a similar sun-protective efficacy (p>0.05) were included for stability test accordingly. The sun-protective efficacy did not significantly shift (p>0.05) because the 0.1% and 0.3% passion fruit extract concealers had SPF of 18.09 ± 1.48 and 18.60 ± 1.21. The concealers exhibited UVA photoprotection with a boot star rating of 4 and a critical wavelength wider than 370 nm. The safety of 0.1% passion fruit extract concealer mousse was assessed. It did not cause skin irritation when assessed in human volunteers. This sunscreen makeup product provides UVA and UVB protection and is therefore suitable for daily application.

摘要 涂抹防晒霜是预防皮肤过早老化与光老化的公认成熟手段。本研究将富含生物活性酚类物质的百香果籽提取物制备为防晒彩妆产品。研究发现，未添加提取物的遮瑕慕斯的紫外线B（UVB）防护防晒指数（Sun Protection Factor, SPF）较粉底液高出一倍，二者分别为15.48±1.60与5.88±0.30。添加0.1%与0.3%百香果籽提取物的遮瑕慕斯与粉底液，其SPF值分别为18.75±0.28、18.99±0.71，以及9.32±0.88、9.77±1.37。因此，选取防晒功效无统计学差异（p>0.05）的遮瑕产品开展稳定性测试。后续测试结果显示，添加0.1%与0.3%百香果籽提取物的遮瑕产品SPF值分别为18.09±1.48与18.60±1.21，其防晒功效未发生显著变化（p>0.05）。该遮瑕产品的紫外线A（UVA）防护性能达到博姿（Boots）星评级4级，且临界波长宽于370nm。本研究对添加0.1%百香果籽提取物的遮瑕慕斯进行了安全性评估，人体志愿者测试表明其未引发皮肤刺激反应。该防晒彩妆产品可同时提供紫外线A（UVA）与紫外线B（UVB）防护，适用于日常使用。