Acetyl hexapeptide-3 in a cosmetic formulation acts on skin mechanical properties - clinical study

abstract Acetyl hexapeptide-3 has been used in anti-aging topical formulations aimed at improving skin appearance. However, few basic studies address its effects on epidermis and dermis, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the clinical efficacy of acetyl hexapeptide-3 using biophysical techniques. For this purpose, formulations with and without acetyl hexapeptide-3 were applied to the ventral forearm and the face area of forty female volunteers. Skin conditions were evaluated after 2 and 4-week long daily applications, by analyzing the stratum corneum water content and the skin mechanical properties, using three instruments, the Corneometer(r) CM 825, CutometerSEM 575 and ReviscometerRV600. All formulations tested increased the stratum corneum water content in the face region, which remained constant until the end of the study. In contrast, only formulations containing acetyl hexapeptide-3 exhibit a significant effect on mechanical properties, by decreasing the anisotropy of the face skin. No significant effects were observed in viscoelasticity parameters. In conclusion, the effects of acetyl hexapeptide-3 on the anisotropy of face skin characterize the compound as an effective ingredient for improving conditions of the cutaneous tissue, when used in anti-aging cosmetic formulations.

摘要：乙酰六胜肽-3（Acetyl hexapeptide-3）已被应用于旨在改善皮肤外观的抗衰老外用制剂中。然而，当以外用制剂形式递送时，鲜有基础研究探讨其对表皮与真皮的影响。为此，本研究旨在借助生物物理技术，明确乙酰六胜肽-3的临床功效。

研究人员将含与不含乙酰六胜肽-3的外用制剂，分别施用于40名女性志愿者的前臂内侧与面部区域。每日涂抹2周及4周后，通过角质层含水量检测与皮肤力学性能分析，借助Corneometer® CM 825、CutometerSEM 575及ReviscometerRV600三台仪器，对皮肤状态进行评估。

所有受试制剂均可提升面部区域的角质层含水量，且该效果维持至研究结束。与之相对，仅含乙酰六胜肽-3的制剂可通过降低面部皮肤的各向异性，对皮肤力学性能产生显著改善效果。而在粘弹性参数方面未观察到显著变化。

综上，乙酰六胜肽-3对面部皮肤各向异性的调控作用，表明该成分用于抗衰老化妆品制剂时，可作为有效成分改善皮肤组织状态。